Aventine Keyhole
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About
On the quiet Aventine Hill, the Priory of the Knights of Malta features a nondescript green door with a famous secret. Looking through the keyhole, you see a perfectly framed view of the dome of St. Peter's Basilica at the end of a manicured garden hedge. This architectural 'optical illusion' is a testament to 18th-century design by Giovanni Battista Piranesi. Expert recommendation: notice the sovereign status of the site; you are looking across three territories—the Sovereign Military Order of Malta, the nation of Italy, and the Vatican. Pro tip: expect a queue even in the off-season. Visit during the 'Golden Hour' for a glowing view of the dome, but ensure your camera lens is small enough to fit against the keyhole.
Highlights
- Perfect St. Peter's frame
- Secret garden view
- Knights of Malta priory
- Mysterious garden perspective
Nearby Attractions
Orange Garden (Giardino degli Aranci)
Formally known as Parco Savello, this walled garden is famous for its fragrant bitter orange trees and its terrace overlooking the Tiber River. It offers one of the most serene and cinematic vistas of Rome, stretching from the river to St. Peter's. The atmosphere is tranquil, often accompanied by the sound of a street harpist or guitarist. Expert recommendation: it’s the ultimate sunset spot in the city; the light hitting the St. Peter's dome is magical. Pro tip: it is located just a few minutes' walk from the Aventine Keyhole, so combine these two. Visit in late spring when the orange blossoms scent the entire garden, making for a truly immersive sensory experience.
Roma Sparita
Located in the quiet, residential part of Trastevere overlooking the beautiful Piazza di Santa Cecilia, this restaurant gained international fame after being featured by Anthony Bourdain. It is famous for its unique presentation of 'Tagliolini Cacio e Pepe' served in a crispy, edible parmesan cheese bowl. The atmosphere is charming and less frantic than the heart of Trastevere. Expert recommendation: the Cacio e Pepe in the cheese bowl is the undisputed star of the menu. Pro tip: try to secure a table outside in the piazza during the spring or summer for one of the most peaceful and authentic-feeling dinners in Rome. Reservations are highly recommended.
Da Enzo al 29
Tucked away in a quieter corner of Trastevere, this no-frills trattoria is legendary for serving some of the most authentic Roman food in the city. The atmosphere is boisterous and cramped, with tables spilling onto the sidewalk. The sensory experience is dominated by the sound of laughter and the aroma of frying artichokes. Expert recommendation: the 'Burrata with Sun-dried Tomatoes' followed by their 'Carbonara' or 'Rigatoni alla Gricia' is the quintessential meal here. Pro tip: they do not take dinner reservations for small groups, and the line starts forming 30 minutes before they open. Go for lunch at 12:15 PM for the shortest wait.
Felice a Testaccio
Operating since 1936, Felice is a temple of Roman gastronomy in the historic working-class district of Testaccio. The restaurant is world-famous for its 'Cacio e Pepe,' which is ritually tossed by the waiter at your table to ensure the perfect emulsion of cheese and pasta water. The decor is a blend of traditional brick and modern polished design. Expert recommendation: the 'Cacio e Pepe' is mandatory, but their 'Stinco di Agnello' (lamb shank) is also exceptional. Pro tip: despite its size, it is perpetually booked out. You must reserve several weeks in advance. If you can't get a table, they recently opened a location in Milan, but the Testaccio original remains the definitive experience.
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