Les Deux Magots
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About
The arch-rival of Café de Flore, Les Deux Magots was a favorite of Ernest Hemingway, Albert Camus, and Pablo Picasso. The name comes from the two Chinese statues (magots) inside the dining room. It offers a more open view of the Saint-Germain-des-Prés church than its neighbor. The atmosphere is legendary and steeped in 20th-century literary history. The sensory highlights include the traditional white-aproned waiters and the classic green awnings. Expert recommendation: Their breakfast set is a classic way to start a Parisian day. Pro tip: While more 'touristy' today, the quality of the food remains high. It’s an ideal spot for an afternoon 'aperitif' while watching the fashionable crowds of the 6th arrondissement pass by.
Highlights
- Legendary literary cafe
- Sartre and Hemingway history
- Prime Saint-Germain terrace
- Traditional Parisian service
Amenities
Nearby Attractions
Café de Flore
One of the oldest and most prestigious coffee houses in Paris, Café de Flore became the 'headquarters' for existentialists like Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir. The Art Deco interior with its red mahogany chairs has remained virtually unchanged for decades. It is a prime spot for people-watching and experiencing the 'Parisian chic' lifestyle. The atmosphere is a blend of intellectual history and modern high-fashion prestige. Expert recommendation: Order a 'Chocolat Chaud Spécial Flore' or a simple omelet. Pro tip: To feel like a true local, sit on the terrace regardless of the weather (they have heaters) and don't be in a rush; the waiters are part of the historic charm and respect the art of lingering over a single espresso.
Saint-Germain-des-Prés District
Once the center of existentialism and the intellectual heart of Paris, this district is famous for its historic cafes, high-end art galleries, and the oldest church in Paris. The area was the haunt of Sartre, de Beauvoir, and Hemingway. Today, it combines its scholarly past with luxury fashion and boutique hotels. The sensory experience is defined by the aroma of espresso on heated terraces and the sight of window displays filled with rare books and contemporary art. Expert recommendation: Visit the church of Saint-Germain-des-Prés to see its recently restored, vibrant 19th-century frescoes. Pro tip: For a truly local experience, wander into the Cour du Commerce Saint-André, a hidden historic passageway dating back to 1735 that contains the city's oldest cafe, Procope.
Pierre Hermé (Bonaparte)
Pierre Hermé, dubbed the 'Picasso of Pastry' by Vogue, revolutionized the macaron with avant-garde flavor combinations. This flagship boutique in Saint-Germain is a temple of sweet sophistication. Unlike the more traditional Ladurée, Hermé is known for his 'Ispahan' (rose, litchi, and raspberry) and 'Mogador' (milk chocolate and passion fruit) flavors. The atmosphere is sleek and high-end, like a jewelry boutique for cakes. Expert recommendation: Don't miss the '2,000 Feuilles' (a take on the mille-feuille) or the seasonal 'Fetish' collections. Pro tip: There is no seating here; it is a boutique only. Buy a selection of macarons and walk two minutes to the fountain at Place Saint-Sulpice to enjoy them in the sun.
Le Comptoir du Relais
Nestled in the heart of Saint-Germain, this legendary bistro by Chef Yves Camdeborde is credited with starting the 'bistronomy' trend. During the day, it is a classic, bustling Parisian bistro serving high-quality traditional fare like snails, terrines, and braised beef. The small dining room is cozy, crowded, and perfectly evokes the spirit of the Left Bank. The sensory experience includes the clink of wine glasses and the hum of neighborhood chatter. Expert recommendation: The 'foie gras de canard' is a must-try for traditionalists. Pro tip: For lunch, arrive 15 minutes before opening to secure a table, as they do not take reservations. On weekday evenings, the menu shifts to a sophisticated multi-course fixed menu which must be booked months in advance.
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